The Belgian twins have just returned from a trip to Japan during which they visited the atelier where FAÇON JACMIN sources its denim in the Okayama region. As beautiful as the region was, the process that went on inside the atelier was just as remarkable. They learned about the entire process of making denim from start to finish and the amount of craft and care that went into each thread of fabric. We want to share with you the journey our Japanese denim goes through – all the way from Japan to our Brussels studio and then to our clients, there are several steps before you wear it in your everyday lives.
STEP 1 – the dyeing process
The start of the journey for our Japanese indigo blue denim is the dyeing process; the technique used is rope dyeing. They use two different processes of rope dyeing – one bigger line, where up to 10 tips can be dyed, and one small line, where 100% natural indigo dye is used. In this area of Japan, the Okayama region, cotton yarn was traditionally dyed by hand, this process is called “kase dyeing” and is when the cotton is dyed before weaving – artisans worked by hand, soaking the yarn and drying, repeating the process. The atelier aims to reproduce this technique with their original rope dyeing machines. Their technology and water process allow the indigo dyeing to be the most authentic – this ensures that our denim at FAÇON JACMIN is truly unique. This means that not only our denim designs for women are exclusive, but also the quality Japanese denim we use as our trademark material is individual.
STEP 2 – the weaving process
Once dyed, the denim yarns are weaved into fabric sheets. At the atelier they still use the traditional denim weaving machines – making their process more authentic. The machines are old Japanese shuttle weaving machines from the brand ToyoDa and are from the 1950s to the 1970s. They have a total of 120 machines, 50 new and 70 old – creating a mix of different weaving processes. In their opinion, the older machines create the best weaving finish – the denim has less tension, allowing more flexibility as well as fewer irregularities. The twin designers found this process fascinating, seeing their Japanese indigo blue denim in the making.
STEP 3 – the finishing process
This is the final stage in the process at the atelier. All the fabrics are finished using a specific machine – increasing accuracy and quality. In this area of the atelier the main focus is finishing, inspection, testing, checking technical data – such as colour, and finally, packing. After this process our denim is on our way to us, ready to be made into our elegant and unique denim designs for our studio in Brussels.
Sustainability at the atelier
Denim requires high levels of water and therefore is renowned for doing harm to the environment. At the atelier they are aware of this issue and have processes in place to ensure the best care is taken in consideration to the environment. They have adopted a clean water purification system – once the water has been used during the dyeing process, the water is purified and returned to the river. This process is necessary for the environment and the Belgian twins are proud to use denim that focuses on environmental concerns. The atelier is verified within the STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX, a worldwide certification system for textile products at all processing levels. It focuses mainly on pollution during the processing stages of textile production, as well as customer safety. This is an increasingly important aspect of production as the mark we leave on our world becomes more and more important. At FAÇON JACMIN we are aware of the steps we need to take to become a women's fashion brand with a conscience.